John Horscroft - SNOW JOKE

Snow Joke...........

Let’s all join the great British snow moanathon! Snow sucks, it stops me getting to work/shopping/Benidorm. The government’s a joke, how can they let things get so bad!? The shops will go broke, businesses will go bust, I’ll starve, my rubbish bin will overflow, the post hasn’t come..............

........hang on a minute, let’s look at this another way, a positive way as in, hurrah, I don’t have to go to work/Tesco/Benidorm! All the shops will have to bring their sales forward, everything will be cheap for Christmas. I can finish off all the stuff in the freezer that dates from 1998. How wise, the government haven’t wasted my taxes on snow ploughs we’d only ever use once in a blue moon.

And last but not least, mountain biking in the snow is brilliant. I got a real taste for it earlier on in the year during the last great snowmageddon in January/February. When the muddy trails of autumn are rendered bone hard by the first decent frost, it’s time to break out the winter riding kit and get out there into the frozen wastes. When a couple of inches of snow fall, it’s time to party.

Riding in the snow is a mixed pleasure for sure, but one of which I never tire. Sometimes, a dusting of fresh powdery snow can make the trails as grippy as a warm summer’s day. Add a little ice and riding becomes a technique-testing lottery, an examination of your sense of balance, ability to relax when it’s all going Pete Tong and knack for dismounting at high speed.

Maybe the biggest buzz though is being out in the wilds when almost everyone else is snuggled up watching The Apprentice. I say almost everyone else because living in Sheffield means there are likely to be a few fellow nutters taking advantage of the conditions. Safe and warm and covered in every technical fabric known to Marmot, I will be pushing on, head down only to realise that a runner dressed only in shorts and singlet is appearing out of the blizzard. Crazy.

But it’s easy to understand why people love the challenge of tough conditions. An empty landscape is enticing, the thrill of a challenge hard to resist. Add to that the warm glow when you get home safe and sound and winter riding can be as rewarding as a hot summer’s day. Long may it last.

Happy Xmas from Sheffield!

Mountain Leader: My leader kit

This is the last of my "xray" diagrams for kit lists. This one is a typical(ish) ML leader pack. Containing a variety of items essential for leading groups in the mountains. This is by no means an exhaustive list and any ML or aspirant ML should pick their own kit based on their experience. My equipment listed below is everything I would take (although not everything is shown on the diagram)for a standard group day on the hill, any specialist items are not included, however these could include things like GPS, any books or guides for the area as required, I also list a sling in the equipment, if going for you ML assessment it is worth noting that some ML assessors do not allow the use of a sling and biner and some do. If you do have one, make sure you know how to use it correctly! Kit list:



Camelbak
Spare water
30m Confidence rope - Set up for easy use
240cm sling and HMS karabiner
Hardshell
Spare warm jacket
Food and emergency rations (in yellow stuff sack)
Headtorch
Phone
First aid kit
Group shelter
Penknife
GPS handset
Walking poles
Thermos flask with warm drink
Map

The above list is not exhaustive, but is generally what I carry when with groups, I add or take away items depending on time of year, group size/age/type, and the nature of the day.

I hope you have enjoyed the series of little diagrams in the last couple of posts, feel free to use these in any presentations etc, but please reference me or let me know if you do :)

Next post: FigFour Dry tooling....any good?

Expedition loadout

Really enjoyed messing around in photoshop and creating the winter loadout image below, so decided I would do one for expedition loadout and mountain leader day sack. My expedition equipment varies a huge amount depending on length of expedition, time of year etc. In the diagram I have not included items like penknive, gps, phone etc, as they are too fiddly to edit in photoshop! Kit shown:







Tent (or part there of)
Sleeping bag
Thermorest (right side)
Poles (left side)
Hardshell
Insulated jacket
Spare clothes (red stuff sack)
Food (yellowy stuff sack)
Stove
Gloves
Camelbak
Spare water
Group shelter

Other kit can be added or taken out as needed. If wet weather expected then thermorest should be covered in a drybag to prevent it getting sodden! Additional kit like: scrambling rope, ice axe (and other winter gear) etc can be added also depending on the nature of the venture.

Bag in picture is my faithful Lowe Alpine Frontier 80+15L. Fantastic bag, present from my parents for my 20th birthday.

Winter Loadout 2010/2011

So last year I spent some time doing a cut away style diagram to detail my winter kit. I thought I would do the same kind of idea again this year. The diagram to the left shows a standard winter day pack. The only changes being that my crampons are not covered and the axes shown are actually strapped to the outside of my bag not the inside as it may seem. As you can see the packing is a little tight, but largely whats included is:


Roughly half a winter rack
1 x 60m half rope
2 x DMM Fly
Helmet
A small group shelter
A water bottle
An insulated jacket
Goggles
Phone
Crampons
Headtorch
Spare gloves
Harness


Naturally that is quite a sparse kit and would only be useful as a daypack. Other things could be added or taken away depending the type of trip/length of trip. It also makes the assumption that I would be wearing certain kit like my hardshell jacket and trousers, gloves etc

Overall I usually pack my bag as shown, with items like helmet/harness and goggles towards the top. I might also add things like GPS, first aid kit (if partner wasn't carrying). My bag of choice is my Osprey Mutant 38, however in some instances this is often not big enough.

Mengobati Sakit Tahunan

Untuk mengobati penyakit yang menahun tidak ada salahnya kita mencoba cara berikut ini :

- Tulislah Rajah atau Azimat di atas dengan getah jeruk keprok
- Kemudian kalungkanlah pada penderita penyakit tahunan tersebut.

Insya Alloh dengan izin Alloh penyakit akan sembuh.

Perilaku Manusia Berdasarkan Golongan Darah

Golongan darah A

1. Biasanya orang yang bergolongan darah A ini berkepala dingin, serius, sabar dan kalem atau cool, bahasa kerennya.
2. Orang yang bergolongan darah A ini mempunyai karakter yang tegas, bisa di andalkan dan dipercaya namun keras kepala.
3. Sebelum melakukan sesuatu mereka memikirkannya terlebih dahulu. Dan merencanakan segala sesuatunya secara matang. Mereka mengerjakan segalanya dengan sungguh-sungguh dan secara konsisten.
4. Mereka berusaha membuat diri mereka se wajar dan ideal mungkin.
5. Mereke bisa kelihatan menyendiri dan jauh dari orang-orang.
6. mereka mencoba menekan perasaan mereka dan karena sering melakukannya mereka terlihat tegar. Meskipun sebenarnya mereka mempunya sisi yang lembek seperti gugup dan lain sebagainya.
7. Mereka cenderung keras terhadap orang-orang yang tidak sependapat. Makanya mereka cenderung berada di sekitar orang-orang yang ber'temperamen' sama.



Golongan darah B

1. Orang yang bergolongan darah B ini cenderung penasaran dan tertarik terhadap segalanya.
2. Mereka juga cenderung mempunyai terlalu banyak kegemaran dan hobby. Kalau sedang suka dengan sesuatu biasanya mereka menggebu-gebu namun cepat juga bosan.
3. Tapi biasanya mereka bisa memilih mana yang lebih penting dari sekian banyak hal yang di kerjakannya.
4. Mereka cenderung ingin menjadi nomor satu dalam berbagai hal ketimbang hanya dianggap rata-rata. Dan biasanya mereka cenderung melalaikan sesuatu jika terfokus dengan kesibukan yang lain. Dengan kata lain, mereka tidak bisa mengerjakan sesuatu secara berbarengan.
5. Mereka dari luar terlihat cemerlang, riang, bersemangat dan antusias. Namun sebenarnya hal itu semua sama sekali berbeda dengan yang ada didalam diri mereka.
6. Mereka bisa dikatakan sebagai orang yang tidak ingin bergaul dengan banyak orang.



Golongan darah O

1. Orang yang bergolongan darah O, mereka ini biasanya berperan dalam menciptakan gairah untuk suatu grup. Dan berperan dalam menciptakan suatu keharmonisan diantara para anggota grup tersebut.
2. Figur mereka terlihat sebagai orang yang menerima dan melaksakan sesuatu dengan tenang. Mereka pandai menutupi sesuatu sehingga mereka kelihatan selalu riang, damai dan tidak punya masalah sama sekali. Tapi kalau tidak tahan, mereka pasti akan mencari tempat atau orang untuk curhat (tempat mengadu).
3. Mereka biasanya pemurah (baik hati), senang berbuat kebajikan. Mereka dermawan dan tidak segan-segan mengeluarkan uang untuk orang lain.
4. Mereka biasanya di cintai oleh semua orang, "loved by all". Tapi mereka sebenarnya keras kepala juga, dan secara rahasia mempunyai pendapatnya sendiri tentang berbagai hal.
5. Dilain pihak, mereka sangat fleksibel dan sangat mudah menerima hal-hal yang baru.
6. Mereka cenderung mudah di pengaruhi oleh orang lain dan oleh apa yang mereka lihat dari TV.
7. Mereka terlihat berkepala dingin dan terpercaya tapi mereka sering tergelincir dan membuat kesalahan yang besar karena kurang berhati-hati. Tapi hal itu yang menyebabkan orang yang bergolongan darah O ini di cintai.



Golongan darah AB

1. Orang yang bergolongan darah AB ini mempunyai perasaan yang sensitif, lembut.
2. Mereka penuh perhatian dengan perasaan orang lain dan selalu menghadapi orang lain dengan kepedulian serta kehati-hatian.
3. Disamping itu mereka keras dengan diri mereka sendiri juga dengan orang-orang yang dekat dengannya.
4. Mereka jadi cenderung kelihatan mempunyai dua kepribadian.
5. Mereka sering menjadi orang yang sentimen dan memikirkan sesuatu terlalu dalam.
6. Mereka mempunyai banyak teman, tapi mereka membutuhkan waktu untuk menyendiri untuk memikirkan persoalan-persoalan mereka.

Guna-guna Piwelas Jaring Sutra

OM KAKI ULA BHUMI,
AKU ANGAMET ATMANE SI ANU ( nama orang yang di maksudkan )
TUMINGGALIN AWAK SARIRANKU,
TEKA POMA (3 kali)
KADEP SIDHI MANDHI MANTRAMKU

Sarananya :
-Jika menggunakan kama lelipi (air liur ular), harus dimantrai 3 kali. Lalu jika bertemu dengan orang yang dituju, oleskan ke bagian tubuh orang tersebut. Dan jika menggunakan kules lelipi (kulit ular yang sehabis berganti kulit), bakar kules lelipi tersebut, diberi mantra, dan oleskan pada orang yang di maksudkan.

-Berguna untuk menundukkan lawan jenis dan juga untuk menjaga keharmonisan rumah
tangga. Sehingga pasangan tidak berbuat yang neko-neko.

Amalan Mengusir Tikus

Jika kebetulan di dalam rumah Anda terdapat banyak tikus dan Anda merasa terganggu dengan hal ini, maka anda boleh pergunakan cara di bawah ini:

1.Ambilah empat potong papan dari kayu zaitun atau papan kayu apa saja yang buahnya mirip seperti zaitun kemudian tiap papan tersebut tulislah ayat Al-Qur’an di bawah ini kemudian tanamlah tulisan dan papan tersebut pada setiap sudut rumah yang dibuat sarang oleh tikus,dengan demikian insya Allah dalam tempo yang singkat tikus-tikus itu akan segera menyingkir sejauh-jauhnya dan tidak akan kembali lagi selagi papan tadi masih tetap tersimpan.

2.waktu menulis pada hari Rabu sesudah sholat subuh sebelum matahari terbit sambil membaca ayat dibawah ini sebanyak 3x.
Inilah ayat yang harus dibaca dan di tulis dengan tulisan Arab :

“BISMILLAHIR ROHMAANIR ROHIIM,WA QOOLAL LADZIINA KAFARUU LI RUSULIHIM LANUKHRI JANNAKUM MIN ARDLI_NAA AU LATA’UUDUNNAA FII MILLATINAA FA UUHIYA ILAIHIM ROBBUHUM LANUH LIKAN NAZH_ZHOLIMIIN (Qs.Ibrohim :13)” 3x.

Steve McClure - Gran Canaria

December in Britain can be dreary! With flights at a mere £100 and a forecast of a sunny 20 degrees Gran Canaria looked appealing. A family holiday with a beach priority but enough rock to keep insanity at bay. We left Sheffield just as the snows began, roads already closing down and setting us on edge with a close call journey to the airport. Little did we know our flight out would be one of the last before the whole of the UK turned white.

The internet can be a beautiful thing; before going I made contact with Chris through http://www.climbincanarias.com and he offered to show me around. Chris is one of the nicest guys I have met, totally psyched, but selfless; an uncommon combination of characteristics for a climber! Despite the weather Chris took me out, battling through conditions to find any dry rock available. Amazingly we found 2 routes, a 7b and an 8c, though the 7b was actually half wet and probably 7c but a better warm up for it, especially considering what was coming next. Chris had already redpointed the incredible Meneo Canario, a soaring arête of rounded basalt, an exercise in friction and balance. It would be at home in the trophy cabinet of the best gritstone arêtes, except it’s bigger by far and continuous forever. Similar to grit, a long reach was invaluable and the flash didn’t come. Chris was psyched for me to redpoint it, but with the family waiting in the car already drenched, I figured time was against me if I wanted another day pass this trip, though to be honest I reckon I’d have been lucky to have gotten it anyway!

As the snow deepened to over half a metre in Sheffield and temperatures dropped to minus 11 degrees life turned normal in Gran Canaria and we settled into 25 degrees of sunshine and a holiday zone. Sandy beaches and some awesome walking led to a relaxed team and another trip out with Chris, this time to El Cruzadito. Things were much more like it here, with awesome stone cast in shadow and a gentle breeze taking the sweat off from the dusty walk in. Great routes and good movement! I blew the flash of Andujar Power but nabbed it first redpoint. Tough at 8b+ but awesome, in fact in a way I was glad to have fallen, as one go on a route this good would not have been enough. I was like a kid in a sweet shop, throwing myself at routes, getting some, missing others, but what did it matter? A tick, or a tick with a fall? Who cares or even remembers, only me, and then actually that’s unlikely. Perhaps I should have been saving some, because for sure I’ll be back. But then no need to save them really, this was just a taster of the climbing; the whole island is made of rock!

Look out for an awesome new guidebook due February – check http://www.climbincanarias.com

For a full selection of pics and photographer details see http://www.climbincanarias.com/blog

Clipper Leashes!

After the hardcore failure of my chokehold leashes at the weekend I vowed to sort out my leash system. This is my story....
Prior to hitting the first ice of the season at the weekend I had been looking into how best to "mod up" my axes for winter. Having struggled with my chokehold leashes previously, I decided I needed some form of clipper leash. I contacted DMM regarding a fitting kit for my DMM flys. The good thing about my axes is that I have a slightly older version of the DMM fly featuring hollow bolts on the shaft, these can be fitted up for a clipper leash. Simon from DMM very helpfully sent me 2 fitting kits for my axes to enable me to fit these leashes.

Having shopped around for the clipper leashes I found Joe Brown offering them for £35 each! http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/winter-mountaineering/climbing-tools/dmm-clipper-leash.html, V12 offering them for £40 a pair, and www.theoutdoorshop.com offering them at an incredible £32 a pair. I immediately put in an order with the outdoorshop.

Quick plug for www.theoutdoorshop.com - this is a brilliant site, great customer service, online BMC discount (if you mail them your membership number), and most of all cheapest prices on everything! incredible! Never had bad service from them yet! Worth a browse with christmas coming up!


The leashes arrived today (8/12), I fitted up the fitting kits (simple enough), and attached the leashes. Job done!

The leashes themselves are simple enough, I was very surprised to recieve 2 DMM phantom karabiners as the "clippers". At £8-9 each these were a nice bonus to have with the leashes (not that I will use them for climbing!). The leashes are very padded and comfortable, and have a small buckle for keeping the leashes in place on your wrist. I imagine when I use these I will simply attach them at the start of the day, and take them off at the end!

Overall for the time and cost investment, I think these will be an excellent addition to my axes! Stay tuned for my next trigger modifications!

Early season winter climbing

Reynolds text me last week asking if I fancied heading over to Wales for a spot of early season winter climbing. The idea appealed to me and over the course of the week we decided on a plan to bivi out in Devils kitchen in Cwm Idwal, and hit the ice early in the morning to avoid the queues. A great idea...until you consider the temperature will be below zero. That said we went ahead with our plan and headed into Idwal around 11pm on Friday night. We bivied out and heading for the ice in the morning. After some pleasant climbing we headed back down and back to the car. Based on crap weather reports we headed back saturday night. We both carried a large amount of kit with us, but which kit did well? And which didn't do well?

Champion kit:

Mountain Equipment Fitzroy:

A cracking jacket, I wore this all day climbing, during the walk in and in the morning in the bivi. It held up to everything Wales threw at us, snow, rain, wind, cold, not only that I didn't overheat in it (often a problem I get!)







DMM Fly:

A cracking all round axe, comfortable to use and ideal for UK winter climbing!

Jetboil:

I love the Jetboil - simple as. Nothing better for making a brew and cooking up boil in the bag meals.


Vilified kit!

DMM Chokehold leashes:

Whilst I love the DMM fly, I HATE the standard chokehold leash, they are uncomfortable to use, hard to get off, and generally not user friendly. Fortunately the good folk at DMM sent me a free fitting kit for my DMM fly axes (I have the slightly older version that have follow bolts for clipper leashes). And I will now be buying some clipper leashes!

Leki walking poles

Titanium poles my ass! One of my poles snapped during the walk in to the first climb, not impressed in the slightest, I will be contacting Leki to try and get this fixed, details to follow!

All in all it was a cracking day! Good nick climbs, good company and ok weather!