Friday, May 14, 2010

Steve McClure - Riglos




There is list of thing climbers should do (in my opinion), and it’s a long list. Climb in Yosemite, sport climb in Spain and Ceuse, stuff in Verdon and Pembroke, go to Stanage. Treck in Nepal, do some stuff in the Alps; it goes on. But multi pitching in Riglos is something I have been meaning to do for a long time.

And at last I got the chance, with sport climbing in Rodellar totally out due to consistent rain and seepage (its wet beyond belief if you are planning a trip there now). There are a lot of routes there, but if you are climbing around 7a then the must do is Fiesta Del Biceps, a ridiculous line up the steep 250m wall towering above the village. Its line is obvious from miles away, marked by the passage of a thousand chalky hands leaving a white stripe blasting straight up the pillar. This chalk never goes away such is the steepness, and the chalk is well required due to the smoothness of the holds.

But none are small, this route is crazy, a line of the biggest holds in the world, ‘potatoes’ seemingly hanging on the face, some the size of rucksacks. Pulling on them it’s a mystery they don’t detach, but they are solid and are a total joy to climb on. Six pitches of around 6b, 6c, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+ 6b (I’m guessing) with super bolts and super exposure. It’s a must do, and really an easy trip out, up and down from the car park in under four hours. You might feel exposed, but spare a thought as you meander up for the dudes who were there first, picking their way ground up through the minefield of detachable holds with doubtful gear. Some of this remains, shoelaces around pebbles and threads behind nothing. Respect!

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