Thursday, April 29, 2010

Pengasihan dengan metode bantal

Berikut ini bacaannya:

Bissmilahirohmanirrohim
Tepuk bantal panggil semangat
Semangat datang dalam mimpi
Aku tak menepuk bantal
Aku menepuk jasad dan roh.............
Satu badan dua nyawa
Satu jasad dua nyawa
Rindu kasih dan sayang
Goncangkan jasad dan roh..................
Aku tak melipat tangan
Aku melipat hati......... terbuka kepadaku
Sri pengasihku sri dali putih
Berkat di iringi sang semar
Berkat doa lailaha illallah muhammad rasullullah.

Caranya baca mantra sebelum tidur
isilah (.......) dengan nama yg di tuju mantra dibaca 3 kali , selanjutnya tepuk bantal 7x lalu dibuat tidur

Menunda ketuaan

Ambilah jamur kayu atau supak sinduk,anda mudah mencarinya di toko obat cina dengan nama
Ling zhi
di samping dapat menunda ketuaan jamur ini juga berkhasiat untuk menguatkan dan meningkatkan daya tahan tubuh

Caranya:
rebus jamur kayu 15 gram dengan 4 gelas air bersih dengan periuk tanah,setelah dingin di saring dan airnya di tambahkan 1 sendok makan madu. aduk hingga rata

di minum 2 x sehari dan tiap minum 1 gelas.

Meningkatkan potensial sex

Dengan Biji Nangka

- ambil biji nangka lalu di goreng tanpa minyak/di gongseng/di panggang,lalu di makan buatlah
amalan ini untuk setiap hari

Som Jawa/GingsengJawa

- tanaman ini juga di sebut gelang porsein,ambilah akarnya gingseng jawa secukupnya lalu
di seduh dengan air panas,kemudian di tambah dengan brem. minum 3x sehari

Dengan biji Daun Sendok

- ambil 3 sendok teh biji daun sendok,di giling halus tambahkan 3 sendok bubur madu murni
di aduk rata lalu di minum

Sperma encer

Yang di maksud di sini adalah,pertempuran belum selesai tapi suami sudah klenger alias sudah sudah tak mampu lagi karena ejakulasi dini. Padahal sang istri belum apa-apa,Jika suami tak segera mengobati,ini akan menjadi malapetaka rumah tangga.
ini adalah salah satu resep yang boleh anda coba,dan alangkah lebih baiknya jika sang istripun ikut mencoba resep ini.

Bahan:
- 1 buah pinang
- 1 buah kemiri
- 3 butir telur ayam kampung
- 2 sendok makan madu murni

Caranya:
pinang dan kemiri di bakar sampai halus lalu di tumbukk jadi satu
telur di ambil kuningnya saja
semua bahan di campur jadi satu di tambah air panas hingga jadi 1 gelas
dan di aduk rata
di minum sekali habis
lakukan selama satu minggu
lebih baik jika anda tidak minum kopi dan merokok
banyak makan sate kambing
seringlah minum susu

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Amalan untuk mempermudah menghafal

Salah satu amalam berikut ini adalah amalan untuk mempermudah kita menghafal atau mengingati sesuatu pelajaran. ini sangat baik untuk para siswa atau yang masih duduk di bangku sekolah

- Membaca surah alfatiha 313x di atas air putih lalu di
minumkan selama 4 hari ketika bangun tidur sebelum makan
atau minum.

-membaca ayat
"FAFAHAMNAHA SULAIMANA WA KULLAN ATAI HUKMAU
WA ILMA WA SHAKHARNA MA'A DAWUDA JIBALA
YUSABBIHNA WA THOIRONA WA KUNNA FA'ILIN...
bisa ditambah do'a
"ALLAHUMA YA RABBA MUSA WA HARUUN YA RABBA
IBROOHIM, YA RABBA MUHAMMADIN S.A.W,
AKRIMNI BI NURIL FAHMI WARZUQNI BIL ILMI WAL
HIKMATA BIL HAQ
WA SHOLALLAOHI ALA SYAIDINA MUHAMMADIN WA
ALA ALIHI WA SHOHBIHI AJMA'IN"

atau membaca ayat di bawah ini:

Allaahumma innaa nas-aluka iimaanan daaiman wa nas
aluka qalban khaasyi'an wa nas-aluka yaqiinan
shaadiqan wa nas-aluka 'ilman naafi'an wa nas-aluka
'amalan shaalihan wa nas-aluka diinan qayyiman wa
nas-alukal 'afwa wal'aafiyata wa nas-aluka
tamaamal'aafiyati wa nas-alukasy syukra 'alal 'aafiyati
wa nas-alukal ghinaa 'aninnaas.Allaahummar zuqna
fahman nabiyyiin wa hifzhal mursaliin wa ilhaamal
malaa-ikatil muqarrabiin birahmatika yaa arhamar
raahimiin.
baca ayat diatas setelah sholat 5 waktu dan tiap kali sebelum
belajar suatu ilmu.insya'Allah akan diberi kemudahan dlm
memahami sesuatu.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

perkasa dengan cara mudah

Inilah cara paling mudah untuk meperoleh stamina tubuh supaya tetap dalam kondisi siap tempur di medan ranjang.

Bahan :
- biji petai cina atau lamtoro 1 sendok makan
- merica 30 grm
- kuning telur ayam kampung 2 butir
- madu murni 1 sendok makan

Caranya:
merica di tumbuk halus,petai di jemur hingga kering lalu di tumbuk halus,keduanya di campur dengan 2 butir kuning telur
setelah di aduk rata masukan madu dan aduk sampai rata,minumlah ramuan ini setiap pagi,niscaya jantan dan tetap perkasa.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Resep lezat pelangsing tubuh

Masakan lumpia sangat cocok untuk mereka yang menjalankan diet langsing,juga baik untuk penderita diabetes karena rendah kalorinya.

Bahan :
- 3 lembar kulot lumpia
- 50 grm daging kepiting
- 3 helai daun slada
- 25 grm wortel
- 25 grm buncis
- 25 grm bengkoang
-25 grm buncis
- 3 buah jamur hitam,di rendam dan di iris
- 2 buah cabe hijau
- 2 buah cabe merah
- 1 siung bawang putih
- 2 sendok makan kecap asin manis
- merica dan garam secukupnya
- minyak tanpa kolestrol secukupnya

Caranya:
jamur,wortel kentang di iris halus memanjang. cabai hijau dan cabe merah di iris menyerong
bawang putih di haluskan,lalu di tumis dengan minyak secukupnya,sampai harum dan menguning
kemudian masukan daging kepiting,jamur,wortel,buncis,bengkoang,irisan cabenya di tumis di tumis kembali sampai masak. terakhir masukan bumbu2 lain secukupnya dan aduk sampai rata
serta angkat dan biarkan sampai dingin. ambil satu lembar kulit lumpia beri selembar daun slada. masukan sayuran isi ke dalamnya lalu di gulung seperti lumpia biasa.
nah siap di hidangkan

Agar selalu terlihat awet muda

Inilah salah satu tips tradisional untuk,agar kita selalu terlihat awet muda.

Bahan :
- kentang 200 grm
- wortel 200 grm
- mentimun 200 grm
- apel 200 grm
- madu satu sendok makan

Caranya :
kentang di kupas kulitnya,juga apel,wortel dan mentimun
kemudian bersihkan dan di blender sampai halus
masukan satu sendok makan madu dan aduklah hingga rata,kemudian minumlah,amalkan hal ini paling tidak seminggu sekali.
minuman ini juga berkasiat menghilangkan rasa nyeri pada sendi tulang dan sebagai peluruh kencing.

Marmot athletes feature heavily in climbing press


Anybody who has recently picked up May’s issue of Climber magazine will probably have noticed Lucy creamer on the main front page. The main front page image features Lucy climbing a route called Apple Arete VS 4C located at Gardom’s Edge. May’s Issue of Climber magazine features a great overview of classic routes found at Gardom’s Edge which includes a number images of Lucy in action. Check out pages 28-31of the magazine for further information.



May’s issue of Climber magazine also featured another well know Marmot athlete by the name of Stefan Glowacz. The interview offers an excellent insight into Stefan’s motivation for climbing and his recent exploits around the world.



Marmot athletes could also be found on the back page of Climb magazines May issue. Glenmore Lodge’s very own George McEwan can be seen cranking out a secret winter line in the Cairngorm Mountain’s during a very wintery product photoshoot held back in February this year.

Keep your eyes out for next month’s issue of Climb magazine which features a fantastic competition where you can win one of 5 brand new Stretchman jackets.

BD Ice clipper problems



Well I've read/written quite a bit about these, and I think it's only fair/right that I explain the circumstances under which I have become part of the "Ice clippers broke on me" club.

Today I was climbing at the Roaches, while rigging the belay I heard the depressed clink clink of gear falling. I looked down to see my trusty reverso3 had fallen down to a lower ledge of the climb I had been on (only about 2 metres). Confused I looked down at my Ice clipper (where I always rack my belay plate) only to see the gate had fallen completely off onto the floor. I looked around and eventually found the gate. I am confused as to how this happened, the route had been a techical slab climb, no trutching or scraping involved, so how did it come off?! Luckily in this case I didnt lose anything important, and nothing was damaged. Would I trust these with a full rack of £40+ ice screws....Probably not.

I fixed the ice clipper no problem, and then belayed with an italian hitch, however if I had been climbing something longer and dropped something more important this would have been an issue!


.......Disapointed and confused.....

DMM Alloy Offsets


Well a little later than planned I finally got around to writing my review of these. They have now accompanied me on 4 climbing trips, three times on grit and once on limestone. There really is nothing to say about these except they are pure magic. They fit so well, I find myself wanting to save them for later in the route and refusing to use them! Climbing at the Roaches today on a route called Captain Lethargy, only HVD, but figured it would be a good outting for the Offsets. The route itself is a winding crack in the "into thin air" section at the far right of the lower tier. I used 3 offsets during the route, and the placements were perfect, the unconventional shape of the offset wires meant they slotted perfectly into the cracks. As an experiment I also tried placing standard DMM wallnuts in the same placements, and they were less than convincing!

The offsets are ideal for complimenting an existing set of wires (I carry wallnuts and/or zero G spectrum wires), as they fit into tapered cracks very well. My climbing partner today (Paul) also commented about the excellent placements the Offsets seem to allow for, turning seemingly appalling cracks into bomber placements.

Brilliant piece of kit, 10/10!

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Perut sakit di saat datang bulan atau haid

Banyak kaum hawa,yang menderita sakit perut akibat datang bulan atau haid,untuk mengurangkan rasa sakit pada waktu datangnya tamu bulanan itu salah satunya dengan cara
di bawah ini.

Bahan:
- 1 rimpang kunyit sebesar ibu jari
- 1 rimpang jahe sebesar ibu jari
- 1/2 rimpang kencur sebesar ibu jari

Caranya:
semua bahan di cuci bersih di parut untuk di ambil airnya,tambahkan dengan perasan jeruk nipis,di sedu dengan air panas 1/2 gelas kemudian di saring.
di minum pada hari pertama haid,tambahkan garam dan gula secukupnya

Melancarkan haid atau datang bulan

Berikut cara melancarkan haid atau terlambat datang bulan bagi kaum hawa,dengan resep tradisional yang telah lama di kenal dari turun temurun

Bahan:
- 2 rimpang kunyit
- 1/2 sendok teh ketumbar
- 1/2 sendok teh biji pala
- 1/2 gengam daun srigading

Caranya:
semua bahan di tumbuk sampai halus,lalu di rebus dengan 1 liter air,sampai mendidih,kemudian di saring.
di minum 1 gelas sehari

Menghilangkan kerut muka

Kerut muka biasa terjadi pada orang yang sudah berusia tua,atau yang terlalu kuat berfikir,untuk mengatasi atau setidaknya untuk menghambat timbulnya kerut muka,berikut resep dari ramuan tradisional yang ada di Nusantara tercinta ini.

Resep pertama
Bahan :
- tepung beras 1 cangkir
- tepung kacang hijau 1 cangkir
- telor ayam kampung 1 butir

Caranya :
semua bahan di aduk sampai rata lalu di jemur. setelah kering di tumbuk dan di ayak/saring halus
gosokan sebagai bedak pada bagian yang berkerut,lakukan setiap akan menjelang tidur

Resep kedua
Bahan :
- buah semangka

Caranya:
peraslah daging buah semangka,simpan dalam botol tertutup dan diamkan selama 24 jam
lalu pergunakanlah untuk selalu mencuci muka

Minuman segar penghalus kulit

Minuman ini sangat berguna untuk menghaluskan kulit anda,di samping itu juga berkhasiat untuk menurunkan tekanan darah,jantung koroner,kadar lemak dan darah tinggi.
Bahan:

-pisang ambon 1/2 buah
-buah tomat 1/2 buah ukuran sedang
-susu cair yang matang 80 cc
-madu secukupnya
-es batu secukupnya

Caranya :
tomat and pisang di blender sampai halus,campurkan susu,madu . hidangkan minuman ini dengan campur es batu

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Demam nifas

Untuk para ibu yang demam akibat nifas,berikut ramuan tradisional untuk mengobatinya:

-daun turi merah 1/3 genggam di cuci bersih lalu di giling sampai halus, tambahkan 3/4 cangkir air minum dan sedikit garam. di peras lalu di saring. kemudian di minum

Sayur bening pelancar ASI

Sayur bening ini untuk berkasiat melancarkan air susu ibu

Bahan :
-kacang hijau
-daun katuk
-kencur
-garam
-bawang merah
-daun salam
-lengkuas
-wortel
-gula merah

masaklah bahan-bahan di atas di ukur dengan keperluan secukupnya,di masak seperti sayur bening.

Perkasa dengan daging kikil

Untuk menjaga keperkasaan para lelaki,makanlah seminggu sekali atau seminggu dua kali daging kikil dari beberapa hewan di bawah ini:

-kikil kerbau
-kikil sapi
-kikil kambing

Caranya:
dari daging kikil tersebut pilih yang anda sukai,masaklah lalu di bumbui sesuai selera anda,tapi jangan lupa di sertakan dengan jahe,semakin banyak jahenya semakin baik.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Steve McClure - Here comes summer





About time too! The winter was a long one, cold, possibly good for friction, but not when covered with snow or for the unmotivated who has been there too many times before. Occasional trips to the Plantation weren’t doing it for me and I pressed on and booked in work with hopes for the spring. And here it is, all in a bit of a rush in the end. What seems like yesterday I was away in Scotland over Easter, it was constantly raining and cold and dark and windy, then two days later I was in Wales in the middle of summer!

Holyhead Mountain, hardly the most inspiring venue in Wales, but a compromise for all team members guaranteeing good trad and good sun. Out of the wind, belaying at the top of the cliff in just T shirt with shoes cast aside was a joy, soaking up the rays like memories from a past life. Taking in the rope then watching as Rab popped over the edge below me rattling with doubtfully placed equipment, my skills rusty with under use. E3’s and E4’s were fine for now, and just right for the sun and the scene.

And it gave time to hit the Cave on the way home. After yesterday I was sore, a few hours on a long link in here is like a complete session, then it was downstairs for routes and Melancholy for a quick tick. Today was the only time in history where the weather was worse at Llandudno than in Llanberis! We watched as the thermometer dropped from 17 to 11, and as the sun rounded the corner and the wind howled in. Huddling in the back of the cave, duvet jackets essential, winter was back! Horary, conditions were awesome, pity my condition was not!

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Lucy Creamer- sunny birthday.


This time 17 years ago and 2 days, I onsighted my first E3. It was my 21st birthday and a very momentous occasion for me. At the start of the year I was leading HVS, then a month or so before onsighted my first E1 (which as it turned out was E2!) and then some E2s. But E3 was the big one for me and the fact that it was ‘Sunlover direct’ at Trevallen, Pembrokeshire was significant. Not least because of it’s name! I am the ultimate sunlover, so it had to be that route, even though as it turned out it’s not completely straightforward. But I will never forget that climb, it was the start of an amazing period and within the year I was onsighting E5s.

My 39th (ah, can that be true?) birthday came and went on Monday- with no earth-shattering climbing news. In fact I didn’t climb at all, which was ok, Tim and I spent a nice day doing ‘stuff’. Which is necessary and enjoyable, especially because at the moment I have been getting out quite a lot.
News on my shoulder injury is that it seems to be slowly improving. I had physio this morning (with the gifted Alison Macfarlane) and now have a new set of exercises to work away on. The pain is subsiding and the mobility is improving, so I can’t complain really. I just wish it wasn’t taking sooo long. I first noticed this problem in Spain (prob March ’09) last year, so it’s taking it’s time but hey there is light at the end of the tunnel.

With the injury, trad seems to be the best course of action. So I have been getting out quite a lot on the grit and slightly further a field. Some of the places I’ve been are Ilkley, Eastby, Almscliff, Tremadog, Stanage, The Roaches, Millstone and so on. Part of the reason I was thinking of Sunlover (apart from my birthday memory) was because of the fantastic weather we’ve been having. I am in heaven, my body seems to come alive when the sun is out and the temperature goes up a few degrees. Although saying that I was out at Millstone yesterday with Sari and it was absolutely baltic- what is going on?!

We wanted to go to Stanage but it was so windy that we didn’t even get out of the van and turned tail to Millstone. It was bloomin cold there too but just bearable, although I nearly got frostbite in my fingers.
I’ve mainly been doing nice easier routes and just enjoying the feeling of moving on rock and remembering how to place gear. I did do an E4 at The Roaches and it was good to get on something harder. It was a roof flake, a little friable but not too bad. I do enjoy being in the horizontal especially when there’s gear. I’ve come to the conclusion that slabs are not my medium and I don’t enjoy the feeling of teetering about with no gear. I enjoyed it in my youth but not any more.
I love going to new venues, so it’s been really nice getting out and about seeing different places. Tim has been along quite a bit too which has been great, so we’ve been collating images for future articles etc. It’s nice to get a lot of climbing under my belt, even though it’s quite easy stuff. I am still going to the Foundry 1-2 times a week, just to keep the fitness levels up, so that’s working well.





The van has had a surge too. The good weather has inspired us to put some work in on it. A cupboard is taking shape, it will be the longest ever build for a cupboard; one shelf seems to take a few hours to put in. But no matter, it WILL get there. The problem is there are no straight edges in the van, just lots of modern curves and swoops, so measuring is a headache. But we’ve chosen paint for the wood and it looks very nice. We just can’t wait to get it finished, it will be amazing to go away in it. Alex and I stayed in it at Tremadog and it was great. Ok there was nothing in it but the spotlights worked!! It was warm and vaguely comfy, so bring it on is what I say.

In fact we are back off to Tremadog tonight, looks like it should be lovely again. Although maybe a few degrees colder, which is just not fair in my book. Last week I was like a lizard on the belays basking in the sun, it was fab but I think it may be layers on this time around. Anyway, it’ll be great to do some more nice routes. I have done a lot at Tremadog, so most stuff will be repeats but it’s been a long time since I did them, so they shouldn’t feel too familiar. Also, Alex had a nasty accident last year and broke her back, so she is regaining confidence again and getting back into it and Tremadog is a good place for that.

I’ve got a very busy time coming up. I’m not sure how much climbing I’m going to be able to fit in the next few weeks. I’m travelling round the UK on the BMC rock climbing essentials masterclass tour with Katherine Schirrmacher. It should be fun but lots of driving. Then I’m going to France with Tim to help him on a big photo shoot that he’s doing, then straight back and off to Pembroke with Alex, then straight back and up to Pabbay with a different gang- phew!! Busy times but enjoyable…

I will try to keep you posted with all the fun and games.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Ricky Bell - The Dark Crystal


Sunshine... Happy days. ..The last month was a bit of a weird one. I didn’t have much work and the weather was too bad to get out on the things I wanted to climb on...normally when there’s not much work on I’m secretly completely psyched.. .. but this was just frustrating. ... So I’ve trained a lot recently (power endurance—projects in mind) and bouldered a bit at the head..but mostly sat around the house looking out at rain..there was one night were all the lights down donnybrook street flickered on and off in this mental hail storm... .But now all that is gone... right now I can’t imagine it will ever rain again in Ireland... I’m sitting in a hotel in Athlone (the middle of Ireland) with sunburnt arms. We're doing some access workn high up on a massive posh hotel...and there’s plenty of work in the pipeline..sometimes life gets in the way of climbing...but that’s fine... climbing never seems to get in the way of life..I’m psyched because I got out climbing on Saturday. And it was brilliant...I went to the east face of lower cove with Craigy, Andy, Michelle and Molsey.



It was roastin but the wall goes into the shade pretty early.. prime conditions for climbing and prime for sitting watchin in the sun.. I climbed a new E7... I love climbing new routes. They always mean something a wee bit more to me than repeating routes.i'm lucky i get to open new routes....For example this route, I looked at it from the ground about a year ago with Craigy. We both thought it looked like an amazing E3 and I suggested he should satch it up there and then. Craig abbed it and floated immediately into space then laughed at me...E3.. The line is this big wet streak on the crag. It was covered in overhanging grass before I cleaned it.. Sounds terrible but if you get it dry it’s friggen wild looking...slightly overhanging the whole way but not sustained in the slightest...a tricky bold section then massive jugs..then a hands off rest on this pedestal near the top of the crag then a slopey boulder problem crux to top it out... the route climbs really well but the thing that appealled to me about it is the granite is completely multicoloured!!..., it’s surreal...black, purple, yellow and green granite. ..It’s mad looking...like nothing i’ve seen anywhere else...I called it The Dark Crystal because I found this (see pic) big black crystal in a ceuse like pocket about half way up the wall. I pulled a big lump of grass out of the pocket and there it was..The Dark Crystal—like the film. If you haven’t seen it, I suggest you do.. the skeksis, were serious bad ass’s. The route climbed well..I enjoyed it simply for what it was...it was fun and natural and completey the opposite of sitting about stressing about work like before...Andy repeated it straight after in typical Marshall style not without a minor moment near the top...before we left , I climbed on another project on the wall... It had one wet hold..I made good progress since the last time I climbed on it. I’m keen to get back on it when I get back from the gloriousness of the creggan hotel athlone. Saturday was class. I think everybody had that wee feeling like it was the start of another wonderful trad season.

enjoy the sunshine

Ricky

Neil Mawson – Something different

After spending over 4 months in Spain and the whole summer last year sport climbing, I fancied changing my focus for a bit. After 2 weeks rest and recovery in February I spent the next 3 weeks training inside as the weather was very mixed. This was also much needed as I couldn’t pull on anything small after spending the winter swinging around on jugs in Spain. Once feeling a bit stronger I ventured outside to boulder on the peak limestone.



After a few sessions at Rubicon I did the problem Dancing Fish which is a left hand finish to Tsunami, a problem I’d done 18 months ago. I’ve had a few more sessions outside recently as the weather has been more stable, mainly at Ravens Tor. I’ve got a few projects that I’m close to and I’m keen to get to Parisella’s cave in Wales and the Bowderstone in the Lakes before changing my focus back to routes for the summer.

Marmot Athlete used by DMM on poster


A couple of weeks ago the Birmingham NEC played host to the hotly awaited "Outdoor Show" DMM the Llamberis gear manufacturer who's motto is "Climb now, Work later" chose an image of there newly signed sponsored climber Lucy Creamer to make into a poster.
The photo, shows Lucy onsighting a stunning route called "Little Lat of the Big Men E5 6a" on one of the spectacular sea cliffs bathed in the lovely evening light on the Channel Island of Jersey.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

DMM Alloy Offset wires- first impressions


RRP: £45
I paid: £20

I had been after a set of these for a while to compliment my DMM wallnuts and Zero G spectrum wires. Finally settling on buying a set I had planned to head over to the new V12 at Awesome Walls in Stoke, however by chance I gave my bro a ring who was at the Outdoors Show, he said they had them on offer at £20 for a full set. At that price how could I say no!!
Will be testing these in the Peak tommorow (Stanage?), so hopefully some details on how they fit then.
However they look and feel cool and well built, so I guess we shall see!