Steve McClure - Gran Canaria

December in Britain can be dreary! With flights at a mere £100 and a forecast of a sunny 20 degrees Gran Canaria looked appealing. A family holiday with a beach priority but enough rock to keep insanity at bay. We left Sheffield just as the snows began, roads already closing down and setting us on edge with a close call journey to the airport. Little did we know our flight out would be one of the last before the whole of the UK turned white.

The internet can be a beautiful thing; before going I made contact with Chris through http://www.climbincanarias.com and he offered to show me around. Chris is one of the nicest guys I have met, totally psyched, but selfless; an uncommon combination of characteristics for a climber! Despite the weather Chris took me out, battling through conditions to find any dry rock available. Amazingly we found 2 routes, a 7b and an 8c, though the 7b was actually half wet and probably 7c but a better warm up for it, especially considering what was coming next. Chris had already redpointed the incredible Meneo Canario, a soaring arête of rounded basalt, an exercise in friction and balance. It would be at home in the trophy cabinet of the best gritstone arêtes, except it’s bigger by far and continuous forever. Similar to grit, a long reach was invaluable and the flash didn’t come. Chris was psyched for me to redpoint it, but with the family waiting in the car already drenched, I figured time was against me if I wanted another day pass this trip, though to be honest I reckon I’d have been lucky to have gotten it anyway!

As the snow deepened to over half a metre in Sheffield and temperatures dropped to minus 11 degrees life turned normal in Gran Canaria and we settled into 25 degrees of sunshine and a holiday zone. Sandy beaches and some awesome walking led to a relaxed team and another trip out with Chris, this time to El Cruzadito. Things were much more like it here, with awesome stone cast in shadow and a gentle breeze taking the sweat off from the dusty walk in. Great routes and good movement! I blew the flash of Andujar Power but nabbed it first redpoint. Tough at 8b+ but awesome, in fact in a way I was glad to have fallen, as one go on a route this good would not have been enough. I was like a kid in a sweet shop, throwing myself at routes, getting some, missing others, but what did it matter? A tick, or a tick with a fall? Who cares or even remembers, only me, and then actually that’s unlikely. Perhaps I should have been saving some, because for sure I’ll be back. But then no need to save them really, this was just a taster of the climbing; the whole island is made of rock!

Look out for an awesome new guidebook due February – check http://www.climbincanarias.com

For a full selection of pics and photographer details see http://www.climbincanarias.com/blog

Clipper Leashes!

After the hardcore failure of my chokehold leashes at the weekend I vowed to sort out my leash system. This is my story....
Prior to hitting the first ice of the season at the weekend I had been looking into how best to "mod up" my axes for winter. Having struggled with my chokehold leashes previously, I decided I needed some form of clipper leash. I contacted DMM regarding a fitting kit for my DMM flys. The good thing about my axes is that I have a slightly older version of the DMM fly featuring hollow bolts on the shaft, these can be fitted up for a clipper leash. Simon from DMM very helpfully sent me 2 fitting kits for my axes to enable me to fit these leashes.

Having shopped around for the clipper leashes I found Joe Brown offering them for £35 each! http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/winter-mountaineering/climbing-tools/dmm-clipper-leash.html, V12 offering them for £40 a pair, and www.theoutdoorshop.com offering them at an incredible £32 a pair. I immediately put in an order with the outdoorshop.

Quick plug for www.theoutdoorshop.com - this is a brilliant site, great customer service, online BMC discount (if you mail them your membership number), and most of all cheapest prices on everything! incredible! Never had bad service from them yet! Worth a browse with christmas coming up!


The leashes arrived today (8/12), I fitted up the fitting kits (simple enough), and attached the leashes. Job done!

The leashes themselves are simple enough, I was very surprised to recieve 2 DMM phantom karabiners as the "clippers". At £8-9 each these were a nice bonus to have with the leashes (not that I will use them for climbing!). The leashes are very padded and comfortable, and have a small buckle for keeping the leashes in place on your wrist. I imagine when I use these I will simply attach them at the start of the day, and take them off at the end!

Overall for the time and cost investment, I think these will be an excellent addition to my axes! Stay tuned for my next trigger modifications!

Early season winter climbing

Reynolds text me last week asking if I fancied heading over to Wales for a spot of early season winter climbing. The idea appealed to me and over the course of the week we decided on a plan to bivi out in Devils kitchen in Cwm Idwal, and hit the ice early in the morning to avoid the queues. A great idea...until you consider the temperature will be below zero. That said we went ahead with our plan and headed into Idwal around 11pm on Friday night. We bivied out and heading for the ice in the morning. After some pleasant climbing we headed back down and back to the car. Based on crap weather reports we headed back saturday night. We both carried a large amount of kit with us, but which kit did well? And which didn't do well?

Champion kit:

Mountain Equipment Fitzroy:

A cracking jacket, I wore this all day climbing, during the walk in and in the morning in the bivi. It held up to everything Wales threw at us, snow, rain, wind, cold, not only that I didn't overheat in it (often a problem I get!)







DMM Fly:

A cracking all round axe, comfortable to use and ideal for UK winter climbing!

Jetboil:

I love the Jetboil - simple as. Nothing better for making a brew and cooking up boil in the bag meals.


Vilified kit!

DMM Chokehold leashes:

Whilst I love the DMM fly, I HATE the standard chokehold leash, they are uncomfortable to use, hard to get off, and generally not user friendly. Fortunately the good folk at DMM sent me a free fitting kit for my DMM fly axes (I have the slightly older version that have follow bolts for clipper leashes). And I will now be buying some clipper leashes!

Leki walking poles

Titanium poles my ass! One of my poles snapped during the walk in to the first climb, not impressed in the slightest, I will be contacting Leki to try and get this fixed, details to follow!

All in all it was a cracking day! Good nick climbs, good company and ok weather!